photo by Phil Mansfield
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Celebrity Dairy Goat Cheese
"Cheese: milk's leap towards immortality" - (Cliffton Fadiman).
We're regularly asked - "do we still eat our own cheese?" Simply
- Yes! In subtle ways - its always different, and still interesting after
10 (no - now 15, and even after 20) years.
Cast of Characters -
The regulars. All of our cheese starts off the same way - some ends up as plain and herb-coated fresh Montrachet
style logs, but mostly as whey. Speaking of whey - 85% of the milk ends up that way. Fed back to the does - they
drink it up and haul it away.
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Montrachet: Fresh (2-10 days old) 1 lb logs
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- Plain |
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- Herb coated |
Asian Luv (toasted sesame
seeds, ginger, garlic)
Currituck (curry)
French Kiss (herbes de Provence)
Garbo (garlic, basil, pepper),
Party (parseley, basil, chives, onion)
Dill (dill, lemon pepper)
Rosemary
Paprika-Garlic |
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- au Poivre |
Peppertop - (restaurant grind) black pepper
Confetti - (coarse cracked red, green, white, & black peppercorns) |
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Serendipity: fresh-drained curd (1-2 days
old) in . deli containers or 2 lb zip-lock bags
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- Plain |
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- Herbed |
Garbo, Party, Dill, Curry, Chipotle, and Jalapeño
(my favorite) |
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- Sweet |
with preserves - Apricot, Peach, or Raspberry. and Chocolate! |
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Cameo Appearances: seen from time to time
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- Feta |
Fresh, w/ Jalapeños, &
Beta Feta - Feta, (but Betta) - packed in olive oil w/herbs |
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- Dried |
Nuggets of dehydrated chèvre - having
a nutty Parmesan-like intensity |
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Mold-Ripened: (new in 2000) - the addition of white and
blue molds and time spent in our aging room give these cheeses character
and complexity
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-Silk Hope |
A hand-ladled pyramid: coated with vegetable ash and
mold-ripened to a snowy white finish |
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- Brie |
A hand-ladled flat cylinder: mold-ripened |
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-Cloud |
A rough ball shape: wild-ripened with blue and white
molds |
note - Silk Hope won a third place Aged Goat Cheese at The American
Cheese Society's annual cheese competition 10 Aug, 2000, in St. Helena,
CA. (sort of old news, but it was the last competition we entered. )
Current
Performances -
Part of our act is hand delivering our cheese to customers - be they individuals at local farm markets, or nearby
restaurants or grocery stores along the local axis running from Siler City & Pittsboro, through Chapel Hill
to Durham, North Carolina. The stores and restaurants that have sought out our cheese are proud of its local origin
and quality, and usually give us attribution on their labels and menus.
Farm Markets - look for Fleming at the Chapel Hill/Carrboro
Farmers' Market - every Saturday morning 7:00-12:00, and in 2007 for
her daughter Lea at the Moore's Square Farmers' Market in Raleigh Wednesday
mid-day - 10:00-2:00. The Saturday market runs from mid-March up to
Christmas, while the weekday Moore's Square Market has a somewhat shorter
season.
Grocery Stores - Chatham Marketplace - Chatham County's
very own local Coop, Weaver Street Market stores in both Carrboro and
Southern Village, A Southern Season in Chapel Hill, and the Whole Foods
Markets in Chapel Hill, Durham, and Raleigh all carry our cheese.
Restaurants - The folks at Aurora Restaurant in Chapel
Hill were our first commercial customer, and Chef Gwen Higgins used
our cheese faithfully for almost 20 years, and offered us great support
and encouragement along the way. Aurora closed after a 25 year run,
and was one of our personal favorite restaurants. Currently, Chapel
Hill restaurants using it regularly include Bonne Soiree,Crooks' Corner,
Elaine's, Glass Half Full, Sandwich, and The Weathervane Restaurant
. In Durham - try Anotherthyme, Ben & Karen Barker's Magnolia Grill,
and Nana's. In Raleigh - Frazier's Restaurant, South, Vivace, Zely &
Ritz, and 1705 Prime.
The Cheese Owners Manual -
Getting it home - How do you get our cheese home? Soft young
cheeses like to be cool, but will tolerate some time at ambient temperatures.
Our rule of thumb: - if your are comfortable, so is the cheese. So in
the heat of summer - if your aren't heading right home to store the
cheese carry it with you, but at least don't leave it in the car. Other
times of year are more forgiving.
Seasoned farm market customers bring a cooler and ice packs with them
to the farm market during the heat of summer. This way they can shop
at the market early to get the best quality and selection, and still
be able to stop for brunch with friends or run other errands without
compromising the quality of their food purchases. One couple proudly
showed Fleming a cooler they had bought just for carrying our cheese
home in style, yet still allowing time for that important Saturday morning
coffee stop at Weaver Street Market: it was an insulated wine bag with
a frozen ice insert! Holds 3 logs of cheese, or one wine bottle (take
your pick) Cool idea.
How long will it keep in the fridge? - The quick answer is: Several weeks - if packaged properly. In its
natural life cycle cheese gradually dries out as it ages. Small cheeses have shorter aging periods than larger
ones. Ours (under a pound) have a natural aging period of only 3-6 weeks.
Your challenge is to guide this process in your fridge - which is both
colder and dryer than an ideal cheese aging room. The waxed parchment
deli paper we use to wrap the cheese retards evaporation, thus compensating
the low humidity level in your fridge. Cheese wrapped this way will
gradually age - getting dryer, and with a more definite flavor. Left
alone, it dries up into a small shriveled rock. (We know - pieces of
cheese routinely flee captivity to the freedom to be found in a refrigerator's
dark recesses - only to be recaptured during that great event - the
annual refrigerator cleaning) Don't throw these out! What you have created
is an aged grating cheese. Take credit for your patience and self-discipline,
and grate these rocks as a garnish for salads and pasta dishes. We sometimes
accelerate this process by putting medallions of cheese in a food dehydrator
and drying them overnight. This creates an instant flavor accent that
stores without refrigeration.
The worst thing you can do is to wrap the cheese in plastic - as this totally arrests the aging process. After
a week, cheese wrapped this way will develop a butterfat "sweat" on the surface, and often start growing
a black mold (poile de chat - or cat hair - a sign of too high humidity) that causes a bitter taste.
Will it Freeze? - yes - definitely! If you are stocking up on cheese in the Fall to carry you over the winter
when the goats are pregnant, and there's no milk to make cheese from - pop your cheese into the freezer. The plastic
deli cups used to package our soft Serendipity spreads are a perfect freezer container. However - the chèvre
logs need to be put into freezer quality zip-lock bags. For best results - thaw the cheese slowly in your fridge
overnight. After thawing, the cheese's flavor is unchanged. When pressed for time we've even thawed the cheese
in a microwave oven - but this insult may make its texture a bit grainy. Better to plan ahead.
Hint: before freezing - cut the chèvre logs into smaller size pieces, and re-wrap in
deli paper. This way you can remove and thaw just the amount of cheese you'll need later. Use a length of dental
floss to cut the cheese: it leaves a clean sharp surface that both looks neat, and minimizes exposure to the air.
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